From North to South
My bike tour this year took me from the northernmost to the southernmost point of Germany. Near both the beginning and end of my route were two places that held special childhood memories: St. Peter Ording and Wertach. As some of you know, this year wasn't easy for my family and me due to two significant losses. So, before and after the tour, it was a great opportunity to revisit these special places with my dad and Elea.
On day one, I bid farewell to my loved ones and headed north to the northernmost point of mainland Germany, where my journey officially began.
Cycling into a persistent headwind, I followed the coast southward. My first night brought unexpected challenges when I discovered that the local eatery was closed. Luckily, I managed to find pretzels at a nearby kiosk, a banana from my friendly camping neighbors, and a delicious ice cream from the ice cream vendor.
The headwind continued to be a constant companion for the next three days, making the daily 130km much more strenuous than anticipated, especially considering the relatively flat terrain.
Stage two began with two ferry crossings – a private one over the Kiel Canal and a public one over the Elbe (these ferry crossings also account for the 6km discrepancy between planning and actual route length). After the second crossing, I had to make an unplanned detour due to a closed lifting bridge over the Wischhafen Süderelbe. I arrived at the campsite just in time to pitch my tent before a sudden, heavy thunderstorm.
Stage 3 was particularly grueling, with a 135km distance and a strong headwind. The last stretch through Hanover was especially challenging, as constant braking and starting took its toll. The campsite was bustling with young people preparing for the "Heroes Festival". I was immediately invited to join a game of Flunkyball. Being the "old guy" with another 130km planned for the next day, I was even allowed to play with "BwW" or pure water.
From stage 4, the climbs started to become more frequent. Anticipating limited food options at my destination, I stocked up on bread and sausage in Göttingen. After waiting out a heavy downpour, I cycled the final 20km to the campsite.
This campsite was exceptional, offering amenities specifically for cyclists and tent campers, despite being primarily used by caravans.
Stage 5 took me through small towns along the former inner-German border. The weather was perfect for cycling: sunny skies, mild temperatures, and a gentle breeze. I was amazed by the sight of "Monte Kali", a massive salt pile near Heringen.
I pitched my tent at the family-friendly "Rhön Feeling" hotel and enjoyed a delicious barbecue buffet. Later that evening, I had a great chat with three motorcyclists.
Stage 6 was a relatively easy day at 104km. While there were some challenging climbs and longer stretches of terrible gravel, the weather was beautiful. At the campsite, I met a fellow cyclist who'd started his e-bike journey from Rothenburg that day. We swapped stories about our adventures – he'd toured Tasmania and New Zealand, and I was cycling around Germany. For the first time on my trip, I ventured off the campsite for a meal, enjoying crispy chicken and rice at a lovely Indonesian restaurant.
From stage 7 onwards, the heat became unbearable, reaching over 30°C for the rest of my tour. To my disappointment, the bakery I'd planned to visit was closed, forcing me to detour for breakfast. Despite the heat, the day was relatively relaxed. Near the end of the stage, I came across a road cyclist with a flat tire. Even though I was eager to reach my campsite, I stopped to help. He insisted on giving me €20 ("for beer and fries at the campsite"), which I initially did not want to accept, but since he insisted, we agreed that I would treat myself to a beer and use €15,- for my fundraising.
At the campsite, I met a New Zealander who was on a four-month motorcycle tour of Europe, taking in MotoGP races and sightseeing.
Stage 8, the queen stage, kicked off with a brutal 2km climb straight from the campsite into Rothenburg. After refilling my sunscreen, I embarked on a 138km journey through hot, hilly terrain. The final 20km were particularly challenging, with two steep climbs, including a grueling gravel ascent. Despite almost settling for pretzels again, a pizza delivery saved the day.
Stage 9 was a steady uphill climb, but the gradient was gradual, making the day relatively easy despite the heat. For the second time on this trip, I arrived at the campsite just in time to pitch my tent before a massive thunderstorm.
My final stage started with a quick energy bar breakfast, instead of starting with the planned relaxed one, due to a public holiday in Bavaria. A road closure forced me to adjust my route. After a leisurely ride to Oberstdorf, I left my gear and headed for the summit. The initial climb was hard but manageable, but the final ascent was brutal, with gradients reaching 20%. The last 3km were a hike, as bikes were prohibited and it was not even possible to push the bike here, let alone ride it. I even met another cyclist who was starting his journey from here to the northernmost point of Germany - he spontaneously presses one of his beers into my Hand, to toast my finish.
After a rapid descent and a shower, I went into town. Unfortunately, Elea and my dad didn't make it to my finish in time, but we met up in the beer garden and toast to the tour together.
We spent a few more days in the Allgäu, hiking in the Breitach-Klamm and the Nebelhorn (witch was very foggy). We also visited Wertach, where we hiked around the Grüntensee - in partly pouring rain.
a few figures for the tour
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distance: 1176 Kilometer
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Altitude gain: 7360m
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time in the saddle: 61Std 40min
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average speed: 19,1 km/h